Read an interesting article by Robert Petronio in the May 2012 edition of La Revue du Vin de France on how the taste of wine changes according to whether you drink it straight out of the bottle, decant it or simply open it and leave it for two days before drinking it.
It seems that the effect can be significant. In most tastings done for this article the wine opened two days before came out on top. Most of us have experienced something similar, regretting not having waited before drinking a wine which seemed a bit rough at the beginning, but which left to itself develops into a much more rounded and elegant drink.
The experiment was carried out very simply (and not scientifically) by taking three bottles of the same vintage (2008) from 5 producers in different appellations. One bottle was tasted two minutes after opening; a second was decanted and left for two hours before tasting; a third was opened and left for two days in bottle with the only contact with the air being through the neck of the bottle. At all times the wine was kept at service temperature.
The results are below.
A Saint-Emilion Grand Cru Château Jean Faure 2008 which seemed green and tannic just out of the bottle, became much softer and more approachable after two hours in a decanter and was positively transformed into an elegant and refined offering after remaining open for two days.
Jean-Claude Boisset's Gevrey-Chambertin Premier Cru Les Cazetiers 2008 underwent the same treatment, but being decanted contrary to Burgundian practice was not kind to this wine which seemed to close up. It was much better just out of the bottle and best of all after two days where it revealed itself especially balanced and graceful.
Similar outcome for a Châteauneuf-du-Pape Clos de l'Oratoire 2008: OK just after opening, disappointing after 2 hours in a decanter, and wonderful after spending two days in an open bottle, having gained in complexity during this time.
The Côte-Rotie 2008 from Michel and Stéphane Ogier reacted badly to being poured into the glass just after the cork was extracted, and fared little better after two hours in decanter but burst into life after two days developing more complexity and an intense floral aroma.
Last but by no means least the Vin de pays Côtes du Brian Lo Vièlh 2008 from Clos du Gravillas, a well-known producer among those who follow the natural wine scene. Out of the bottle it was pure fruit, delicious to drink. After two hours in the decanter the result was more ambiguous. There was a broader aroma spectrum but less freshness. Two days opened in bottle however did wonders for it in terms of elegance and showed just how good Carignan can be.
So there you are. The next time you have a bottle of wine don't drink it straight away (difficult, I agree..). Leave it open for a couple of days (in the fridge of course, or the cellar if you are fortunate enough to have one) and then drink it.
You could match it with that stew or cassoulet you have been reheating and which has tasted better and better each time. Bon appétit !
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