Something to look forward to

I am really looking forward to getting my edition of José Vouillamoz' book (Wine Grapes - the most complete guide to vine varieties) on grape varieties.

I wrote about a talk and tasting José gave at the RAW natural wine fair and had the opportunity to chat with him afterwards. I have never met anyone with such a deep knowledge of the subject.

I think anyone who is interested in vines and viti-viniculture should find the book interesting.

It is described as the most complete ever, although it will be interesting to compare it with Pierre Galet's various ampelographic works (see list at Athenaeum).

It is due to be released towards the end of October and can be pre-ordered via the link above.

RAW - the priceless treasure of obscure grape varieties

Dr José Vouillamoz presenting at the RAW Wine Fair

Attended a fascinating tasting at the RAW Wine Fair given by Dr José Vouillamoz. Dr Vouillamoz is a vine geneticist who has an unbridled passion for rare grape varieties. He presented 10 wines (6 white, 4 red) made from very rare varieties.

Durella, Nosiola, Spergola, Friulano, Rkatsiteli, Enantio, Caberlot, Nerello Mascalese, Kadarka... I had never tasted any of these varieties either. The only familiar grape was an ungrafted Chardonnay from Guillot-Broux from the Mâconnais (alas the vineyard recently succumbed to phylloxera and is no more). Only the wine remains.

Several whites had been made with extended skin contact; one, the Friulano, was even given cap punching (pigeage).  They were all interesting, in the way exotic unknown fruits can be, with surprising taste and aroma combinations.

The Friulano for example was slightly oxidised, had tannins and yet had an undertone of apricots and marmalade rather like a botrytised white.

The Rkatsitseli also surprised with its licorice and tar on the nose, spicy taste with added quince and tropical fruits.

Of course, a lot of the taste was down to the winemaking techniques - skin contact for the whites, qvevri for the Rkatsitseli, fermentation in amphora for the Nosiola etc. Nevertheless tasting these wines gave me the desire to taste more, and reinforced my own love of obscure varieties, or novel, often very traditional winemaking.

We should do all we can to treasure these old varieties and taste them whenever we can. Loss of genetic material can be forever, and we never know when it might be needed.

It was after all only less than 150 years ago that phylloxera was first seen in European vineyards. It nearly wiped out wine production for good. A recent discovery of vine genetics is the missing link in the makeup of Merlot which happens to be an almost extinct (only about 10 vines still remain) variety from Brittany and the Charentes. I certainly hope that this Magdeleine noire des Charentes is preserved.

Look out for José's forthcoming book 'Wine Grapes', (co-authored with Jancis Robinson and Julia Harding, due out in October through Allen Lane, Penguin Press).

Details http://www.rawfair.com/talks-monday

Grape Futures

This photograph shows the embryonic flowers which in a few months will have been transformed into grapes. They were formed during the last growing season and have emerged along with the first shoots, spurred on by the lengthening days and higher temperatures. It is on these delicate forms that the vine grower's season depends, threatened as they are by late frost, bad weather at flowering and many other hazards.

The Sap is Rising

Can Spring now be far away ? This view of a just pruned vine shoot shows a droplet of sap emerging from the cut.

The vine has awoken from its slumber, the buds have swollen, and new shoots sprout fully formed.

NB - this vine is in a very sheltered location !

Turnips and early flowering

The first Turnips of the season

You don't see many turnips in the shops these days. As with many once common foods they are more likely to feature on the menus of Michelin starred restaurants as purées, than on the plates of the ordinary citizen. It is said that before the introduction of potatoes turnips were once a very important food, providing good carbohydrates fairly early in the season. I shall try them in a gratin this weekend with a shoulder of lamb (our weekly meat-fix) - and will report on the result. These particular turnips found themselves cooked in a couscous, and very good they were too. The wine was a rosé from the Côte Roannaise - L'Enjoleur 2009 from Domaine Robert Sérol.

The turnip may not be inspiring or fashionable but it is a versatile root (a friend suggested roasting them with a honey glaze) and worthy of our attention, just like many other neglected vegetables and wild foods. It is wise to be familiar with them.

A quick aside to comment on the early flowering of vines this year - before Wimbledon, no less ! A long growing and ripening season in prospect for English and Welsh growers. As usual there has been a lot of comment in the press about exceptionally good harvests and brilliant English wines this year. But as the saying goes, there is many a slip twixt cup and lip.