Beaujolais naturellement

View from around Vauxrenard

I have not in recent times posted very much on one of the themes of this blog, that is, wine. So to make amends I will be writing briefly from time to time on some producers I know and value, or putting down a few words on wines I have been drinking. Here is the first wine-themed post.

One of my favourite producers is Domaine des Côtes de la Molière, owned by Isabelle and Bruno Perraud who farm 8.5 hectares in and around Vauxrenard, high up in the Beaujolais hills with a marvellous view over the valley of the Saône. Isabelle and Bruno are true pioneers. They were among the first to return to organic viticulture in the area and are truly passionate about this, despite its relentless backbreaking slog.

Their commitment to natural winemaking techniques (sometimes it is difficult to detect much free SO2 in their wines !) is exemplary. They are nothing if not tenacious and full of passion for their profession.Their commitment to their terroir is also bordering on the fanatic even though they have been hard hit by hail these past years and when you first drive up to Vauxrenard (especially in fog) you wonder if this is not the end of the winemaking world.

There is no need to worry though : the wines are delicious, low alcohol, fruity, mineral, refreshing. In other words yummy. And you never really know what to expect. Some would view this as a defect. I tend to welcome it. I remember the time I tasted one of their first Chardonnay cuvees and was struck by the fact that it reminded me of Pouilly Fumé (wrong place, definitely wrong grape variety). I was dumbfounded until Bruno admitted there was a small amount of Sauvignon Blanc from years back planted with the Chardonnay. I am sure it helps this Chardonnay to stand out. Their Saint Véran is divine and razor-sharp but with luscious buttery notes. I have also sampled their Beaujolais Nouveau (unadulterated pleasure - this wine cries out to be drunk), Côte de Poquelin (the 2009 I have left is still going strong) and Moulin à Vent (this wine in particular has great depth and will age well if you can keep yourself from drinking it). This is good honest, traditional (i.e. no additions to the wine, no chemicals in the vineyard) wine making. Give it a try. You may not regret it. In fact it may change your life.

Do make the detour and call in if you get the chance. Isabelle has a shop in the village square which you cannot miss. http://cotes-de-la-moliere.com/