Wednesday 26 December 2012

Drunk at Christmas



No, I wasn't. Drunk, that is.

But I did drink, and enjoy very much, this wine from Viña Ijalba.

A Maturana Tinta single varietal from 2009.

Dark juice, like concentrated cherries, and good acidity. Went down well with the turkey.

This particular grape variety, it transpires, is in fact Trousseau which has its origins in the Jura area of France. If you can, compare the Viña Ijalba version with wines from Tissot from the Jura.






Thursday 20 December 2012

Something puzzling

What is happening? I am becoming more and more puzzled by all the contradictory information about the economy. Of course I am not alone in this. But I would like to understand.

I read Paul Krugman who tells us (in his Rise of the Robots and subsequent posts) that we won't be in work very soon, that technology will render lots of people obsolete. The oligarchs (and I do not mean the Russian ones) will make all the gains, the rest will have less and less. I suspect he may be right.

At the moment I am in the translation business, which is becoming increasingly technology dominated. This is having a marked effect on pricing, and on the number of actual human translators required. For now CAT (Computer Assisted Translation) software or machine translation as far as I can see is just very sophisticated word processing, but soon, perhaps sooner than we think, there will be programmes capable of producing very acceptable translations. The only humans will be required for very specific subjects perhaps, and doing a bit of revision or review.

Perhaps this is just another example of an industrial revolution, or creative destruction as expounded by Schumpeter?

Then, Paul Mason refers to André Gorz in one of his tweets.

I am reminded of a passage in a book about André Gorz (André Gorz un penseur pour le XXIe siècle - La Découverte 2009) I am reading just now, which describes the development of service industries in present day capitalist economies, where large numbers of people are employed in industries catering for the needs of people who would rather pay for someone to do something rather than do it themselves ('emplois de serviteurs' or jobs for servants). To function, this model needs an increasingly unequal society.

This, along with the monetarisation of all human activity, and all of nature, characterises the current economy.

People talk of acceptable austerity (this is the sort I know):

"There is what I would call an acceptable austerity – live in smaller home, buy only used cars (or just walk or bicycle), never eat out, never go to movies, never take away from home vacations – that sort of thing.

And then there is what I would call an unacceptable austerity – homelessness with all it real dangers, no money to buy food – that sort of thing." Comment by Allan Marks on a post by Krugman

and unacceptable:

"You're absolutely correct about unacceptable austerity, and something like 10-million Americans (including whole families) have fallen into that zone: Homeless, no money to buy food, relying on an ER if they get sick. For a book I am writing about middle class homelessness, I've spoken with countless people who, until recently, were living a middle class life. Then circumstances beyond their control piled up and they were out on the street." Comment by Charley James on a post by Paul Krugman

Yet the media trumpet the highest number of people at work in the UK, ever. The USA still has less than 10% of the workforce unemployed. This does not account for the large number of workers who can only get part-time work, or who have become 'self-employed' or who have given up looking for work.

Despite the financial crisis and the subsequent recession, unemployment here has not become an overt disaster as in Greece or Spain.

The reason is simple apparently. Instead of investing in more efficient equipment or developing new markets, industry in general has decided to hang on to its softer more biological equipment (=people) to do the work, which avoids the need for costly investment.

This in turn boosts profits, and bonuses. This in turn means that a larger and larger portion of wealth is concentrated in fewer hands, creating the inequality needed for the service economy to thrive, and so on.

Where will all this lead? Answers on a postcard, please...




Monday 17 December 2012

Is what is good for the Goose good for the Gander?

Yes, I know they're ducks...

A lot of g's in there, I know. But there is a reason for it.

Having been asked if an Alsace Riesling or Gewurtztraminer would be a good match with a roast goose, I imagined this would work well, although I did not have this particular roast fowl to hand to actually taste it.

I like the idea of serving a good white wine with roast goose, and I began to think of all the other wines likely to go with it.

A Vouvray demi-sec from Huet perhaps or a Montlouis from Les Loges de la Folie?

Then, chancing upon Jancis Robinson's latest FT magazine column in which she tentatively suggests a white Hermitage 2008 from Tardieu-Laurent ("A white to drink with goose even?") as a good accompaniment to goose, I thought a good white Saint Joseph would also do the trick.

But my mind was constantly brought back to the virtues of a mature Cahors from Clos Triguedina or Mas del Périé..

Is this not the best sort of wine to go with the goose or the gander?

This reminded me of a stay in a small village near Figeac blessed with a fine restaurant frequented by the locals, serving magrets, confits and all the products of the duck (see photo above), but also, more rarely, of the goose. Geese could be spotted by the keener eye in the fields roundabout, and the wines favoured locally were Cahors, but also Buzet, Bergerac and Gaillac.

So the choice is wide and will demand a lot of tasting and roasting, but at this time of year that is not a hardship.

Let me know if you have any other suggestions.






Wednesday 12 December 2012

Wines I would love to meet

Sitting here on a cold foggy London evening I dream of wines I would love to meet, taste, drink.

Not the mythical vintages of Bordeaux or Port, but wines out of the ordinary in a more modest way.

Amphora wines, qvevri wines, wines made from very obscure grapes, from up the side of volcanoes,  from vines in little hollows in a rocky desert, obscure champagnes from the Aube, Pinot Noirs from the Yonne and the Languedoc, wines from vines growing on their own roots, ice wines, unexpected blends, wines with no additives of any kind, wines made from hybrid grape varieties, reds vinified as whites, 'orange' whites...

And where would I like to drink them? Usually I would do that in situ, right where they are made, with the local signature dish, whatever that might be.

But just now I can imagine a small wine shop or wine bar, with an open fire, and wines coming straight out of the barrel, and a selection of great serrano ham, rillettes, cheeses etc on tasty pain de campagne, along with something cooking slowly in a large cauldron...

It is good to dream of all these things in this deep midwinter. And, yes, I did say wines I would like to meet.

Wines are like people, you must meet them, like you would meet those who make them.


Thursday 6 December 2012

Tuesday 4 December 2012

Lazy French Choice

Charming Charmer


Having made something spicy involving chilli and beef we wondered what to drink with it.

We made the usual lazy French-style choice of having a rosé, which is the default choice of this nation when something vaguely spicy or resembling a pizza is to be eaten.

After rummaging around in my old wine boxes I dug up this bottle of Enjôleur (= Charmer) 2009 from Domaine Robert Sérol, (property recently mentioned by Jancis Robinson in her FT column 27/10/2012)

And very nice it was too. A wine made from Gamay grapes (or Gamay de Saint Romain to be exact -  the Sérols would not forgive me if I didn't mention this), slightly off-dry with 11% alcohol.

Of course when I say off-dry, I do not mean like those blush Zinfandels or other sickly-sweet rosés that are not too palatable. This was just sweet enough to balance the acidity, and complement the raspberry/strawberry aromas.

It did go down very well with this hot and spicy beef.

A few words about this producer. This estate is in Renaison in the heart of the Côte Roannaise appellation.

This is a small wine producing area (around 200 hectares) situated to the west of Roanne in central France, overlooking the valley of the Loire. The vines are planted on generally east facing hillsides between 370 and 550 metres high.

If the Beaujolais (100kms to the east)  is the most renowned home of the Gamay grape variety, then the Côte Roannaise and its neighbour the Côtes du Forez are its second home, producing wines that stand out for their immense drinkability (when you choose the right ones).

Domaine Sérol is well known for its beautifully made wines reflecting terroir in the most faithful and expressive way. Their cuvée Troisgros is served in the eponymous restaurant in Roanne.

Among the other stars of their wine range is L’Incorruptible 2009 made using indigenous yeasts and without added sulphites (delicious !) and the De butte en blanc 2009 Viognier which is a revelation and great value for such a handcrafted wine. It is also one to watch as it was made from young vines and in a few years may be a match for the Condrieu wines made not so far away on similar soils.